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b. patisserie Chinese New Year pastries

By   /  February 9, 2017  /  Food, Restaurants  /  No Comments

You don’t have much time, only until February 12, to taste Belinda Leong’s 2017 repertoire of Chinese New Year pastries at her insanely busy shop, b. patisserie. So relax–if you don’t mind missing the most sensuous and exciting pastries of the year. For those of you who think that culinary fusion brings together the worst [...]

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Arsicault Bakery

By   /  April 29, 2016  /  Food, Restaurants  /  2 Comments

Yeast-leavened French pastry or viennoiserie is a culinary miracle that traps the voluptuousness of  fine, rich, sweet butter in layers of air and crunch,  in the form of a golden croissant or a morning bun or a kouign amann. ( Kouign amann, a specialty of Brittany where some dishes keep their Celtic names, is puff [...]

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State Bird Provisions, Another Look

By   /  July 3, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

I reviewed State Bird Provisions for the Examiner shortly after it opened in February, 2012, jumping the gun because I was so excited about it.  Chef/owner Stuart Brioza and his two partners were still tinkering with the concept, an unusual food delivery system of dim sum carts and trays that stopped at each table. Essentially [...]

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Salumeria

By   /  July 1, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Almost every neighborhood in San Francisco has its beloved corner grocery/deli, where the hungry can get thick, made to order subs, chips, a beer.  For fourteen years I lived in North Beach a block away from Freddy’s, an old timer on the corner of Francisco and Grant. I still have fond memories of the prosciutto [...]

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Bi-Rite Creamery soft serve window

By   /  April 20, 2012  /  Food  /  No Comments

Here’s my dirty little secret: I go for ice cream after eating Asian, or, as happened last night, vegetarian.  The most convenient spot always turns out to be the Bi-Rite Creamery soft serve window because there is never a line.  I park on the corner illegally, turn on the hazard lights, and run to the [...]

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903

By   /  April 20, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Econ 101: fill a need and they will come. Matsumi Takehara, mother of two, elite pastry chef and owner of the Sandbox Bakery in Bernal Heights, wanted a place in her neighborhood where parents and kids could have a good time eating  together.  Her bakery started that mission two years ago, but 903, her restaurant [...]

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Gilberth’s

By   /  April 19, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

A newcomer to  Dogpatch,  Gilberth’s quietly started serving a unique  menu of pan-Latin American fusion last month.   Without a sign, beer and wine, or press releases, its opening was so soft, hardly anyone noticed.  But once you eat there, you won’t forget it. My road to discovery started around the block from the Workshop Residence [...]

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Roostertail

By   /  April 19, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Roostertail, a new, family run chicken rotisserie a block from the Kabuki movie theater, captures what ingredient-crazed, vegetable gorging, farmers’ market addicted San Franciscans truly like: vibrant home-style cooking. While nothing can beat a chicken roasted at home, torn apart hot from the oven, the golden skinned birds at Roostertail ( $6.50/ quarter; $18.50/whole) come [...]

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Tacolicious and Bar Mosto

By   /  April 19, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Are these people crazy? Why bring another taqueria to the Mission where, thank goodness, $3.50 still buys a soulful taco piled high with meat, and $6.50 a burrito that satisfies all day? Because the Mission doesn’t have anything like Tacolicious, a full service operation with a Mexico City-style menu, an adjoining tequila bar, a tailored [...]

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Original Joe’s

By   /  April 18, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Eaters in this town wondered if Original Joe’s would ever reopen after a fire destroyed it four years ago. This beloved institution, started in 1937, drew devoted customers from all walks of life to one of the funkiest blocks of the Tenderloin. I am ecstatic to report  that the new Original Joe’s, in the former [...]

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