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Maruya

By   /  April 29, 2014  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

When Alice Waters, whom I consider one of the world’s great eaters, is asked about her favorite restaurants (other than Chez Panisse, of course), she always gives the same answer: “I go to restaurants where I am known.” By this she doesn’t mean getting a good table. She wants something deeper, both a kitchen and [...]

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Ramen Shop

By   /  March 11, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Leave it to Chez Panisse alums to turn a ramen shop into a farm-to-table experience. The noodles, made on site daily, possess provocative chewiness. Ramen Shop broths, cooked entirely from scratch, conjoin clarity and depth. The pristine garnishes–pork, egg, greens–are radiant with color and flavor. This is ramen at its purest yet most expressive. You [...]

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Ken Ken Ramen

By   /  January 15, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

During the recession, the idea of opening a successful restaurant changed. Instead  of raising seven figure capital from investors, passionate cooks with a dish or two they loved to make figured out new ways to get them to the public–pop ups, restaurant sharing, food stands at farmers’ markets, food trucks, community kitchens. They invoked the [...]

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Ippuku

By   /  April 24, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  2 Comments

Japanese barmen milk shochu from a long overhead rack of upside down bottles, at the front of Ippuku, the authentic yakitori in Berkeley. They squirt 50 proof barley, rice and sweet potato liquors into frosty glasses and   concoct cocktails with the vodka-like liquor, citrus, ginger and spritzer over ice. They purposely over pour cold, artisan [...]

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