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Hong Kong Lounge II

By   /  November 11, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Nobody handles fish and shellfish with the sensitivity, the timing and the nuanced technique of the Cantonese. Give Italians their miraculously juicy branzino baked in sea salt, and the Japanese their thrilling, animistic presentation of the raw. The Cantonese prepare the whole underwater menagerie in ways that reveal wondrous flavors and textures. No chefs do [...]

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Hakkasan

By   /  February 11, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  2 Comments

Cecilia Chiang,  who in 1968 mounted the first upscale, northern Chinese restaurant in America called The Mandarin, and ran it for 23 years, perpetually complains about the dearth of Chinese restaurants in San Francisco that have gracious service, appointments and decor. So when Hakkasan, the new, high-end Chinese restaurant from London opened, we went right [...]

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Chili House

By   /  January 3, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Paul Kwan, my Clement Street insider, turned me on to Chili House, a new Sichuan/northern Chinese restaurant in the inner Richmond, and a relative of Z & Y, a Sichuan place in San Francisco’s Chinatown.  The chef at Chili House worked at Z & Y, and apparently the ownership is the same.  However, Chili House [...]

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