The ideal culinary couple, chef Stuart Brioza and pastry chef Nicole Krasinski, last cooked for the public at Rubicon, until Francis Ford Coppola sold it in 2008. But their luminous dinners made such an impression, their patrons swept them up for private events. When I ran into Brioza at the farmers market over the years, he seemed in no hurry to return to a restaurant. They traveled; had a baby; did ceramics; fooled around in the kitchen. And finally one day Brioza told me they had a project. Not unexpectedly, it sounded wacky, unworkable and uncompromisingly creative. Now we have State Bird Provisions, a complete original, and one of the most exciting restaurants to open in San Francisco.
State Bird is a cook’s restaurant, one where whimsical and exquisite small dishes emerge from the open kitchen at the front on carts and trays, like dim sum, unfettered by a menu. The wait staff parade them through a tight, spare dining room, stopping at each table…
State Bird Provisions, 1529 Fillmore Street (between Geary and O’Farrell), San Francisco
Contact: 415 795-1272; www.statebirdsf.com