Roostertail, a new, family run chicken rotisserie a block from the Kabuki movie theater, captures what ingredient-crazed, vegetable gorging, farmers’ market addicted San Franciscans truly like: vibrant home-style cooking.
While nothing can beat a chicken roasted at home, torn apart hot from the oven, the golden skinned birds at Roostertail ( $6.50/ quarter; $18.50/whole) come close. The source of the birds, Mary’s, a high quality, San Joaquin valley chicken producer, makes all the difference. I won’t go into the details of chicken processing, but air chilling, a revolution in the industry, creates a much juicier and tastier bird. Though Roostertail errs on the side of doneness, the breast meat maintains moisture and flavor. Even I, a committed thigh lover, could go white here.
But, it is the Roostertail sides that I adore, all of which must be ordered separately…
1983 Sutter (at Fillmore), San Francisco
Contact: 415 776-6783; www.Roostertailsf.com