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Deli Board

By   /  December 2, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Adam Mesnick’s premier Deli Board creation, the Gold-N-Berg-N-Stein ($10)–corned beef, pastrami, Kosher salami, muenster cheese, house slaw, house 1000 island on a sweet french roll–practically ruined me for any other sandwich. It sets the bar.  Soft, salty, buttery, piquant and creamy, this sandwich transcends its components to become a higher food, some kind of manna. [...]

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Trace

By   /  November 4, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

A restaurant in a hotel already has many strikes against it. I always assume that it will be overpriced with a kitchen distracted by having to prepare three meals a day plus room service.  Trace, the restaurant in the Hotel W, headed by Aqua and Oliveto alum Paul Piscopo, is the exception.  Piscopo’s ingredient driven [...]

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Nan

By   /  October 27, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Nan, a new Korean beer hall, recently sprung up on an unnoticeable corner at Fillmore and Geary, where eight lanes of traffic whizz by below and two lazy tributaries cross the Fillmore Street overpass. Nan’s obscurity is about to change, however when two glamor spots, Hapa Ramen and State Bird Provisions, open across the street [...]

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Beachside Coffee House and Kitchen

By   /  October 21, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

San Francisco’s  oceanside community feels like another country, with its own weather and enthusiasms. People actually born in the City live here,  along with three legged dogs, surfers, RV dwellers, solo back packers, bike advocates, and a lot of babies and young kids, if the view out the always open front door of Beachside Coffee [...]

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Oliveto

By   /  October 14, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

When Paul Bertolli left Chez Panisse to take over the kitchen at Oliveto in 1993, he turned it into one of the most wondrous and ground breaking restaurants in the world. Every meal became a revelation about essence, about using old world techniques to create food that rebooted culinary consciousness. Over his fifteen years at [...]

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Park Tavern

By   /  October 7, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

A fluorescent blue cartoon moose beckoned the hungry and thirsty to the beloved old Moose’s.  At Park Tavern, which just opened in the same  location, the first thing that caught my eye was a big round seal set in mosaic floor tiles at the front door that reads est. 2011.  Pretty confident, I thought,  in [...]

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Izakaya Sozai

By   /  October 1, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

In the spirit of cultural diversity, the first thing that struck me about  Izakaya Sozai, a Japanese restaurant on a corner of the inner Sunset, was its feng shui, its alignment in the universe. There’s something seductive about its big plate glass windows that almost reach the sidewalk. You can’t help but notice all the [...]

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Cupola Pizzeria

By   /  September 22, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

The last place I would expect to find an extraordinary meal is on the 4th floor of a shopping mall. But, what do I know? I’ve only written about 2000  restaurant reviews. Imagine my astonishment at discovering Cupola Pizzeria, a new addition to the “Restaurant Collection” in the Westfield Centre, under the old Emporium glass [...]

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Cinderella Russian Bakery and Cafe

By   /  September 16, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Cinderella, the inner Richmond cafe and deli that has been turning out Russian comfort food, hearty breads and fluffy pastries for 58 years, has a completely new look and a pared down menu. The old fashioned, white curtained dining room has disappeared, replaced by a handsome wooden ordering counter and display case chock full of [...]

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Blue Barn Gourmet

By   /  September 9, 2011  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Though I have often walked by Blue Barn Gourmet, a salad and sandwich shop in the Marina, schlepping dying computers to the madhouse otherwise known as the Chestnut Street Apple store, I never thought about walking in. Then two slim guys I know, a 27 year old and a 40 something,  mentioned Blue Barn. So [...]

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