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Bar Tartine

By   /  January 21, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Six years after it opened, Bar Tartine, the restaurant offshoot of Tartine Bakery, has become Hungarian at dinner and Scandinavian at lunch. Both meals are fantastic–original and luscious. The lunchtime Danish sandwich bar was created when Bar Tartine expanded into a space next door and installed bread ovens.  There, Chad Robertson bakes whole grain northern [...]

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Ken Ken Ramen

By   /  January 15, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

During the recession, the idea of opening a successful restaurant changed. Instead  of raising seven figure capital from investors, passionate cooks with a dish or two they loved to make figured out new ways to get them to the public–pop ups, restaurant sharing, food stands at farmers’ markets, food trucks, community kitchens. They invoked the [...]

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Boot and Shoe Service

By   /  January 9, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

To sustain a no reservations policy, a restaurant must be very popular and very good, not just in the kitchen but in the front of the house, too. Nothing aggravates hungry people more than uncertainty, and how the peckish  are handled from the moment they walk through the door determines whether they will flock back. [...]

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Chili House

By   /  January 3, 2013  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Paul Kwan, my Clement Street insider, turned me on to Chili House, a new Sichuan/northern Chinese restaurant in the inner Richmond, and a relative of Z & Y, a Sichuan place in San Francisco’s Chinatown.  The chef at Chili House worked at Z & Y, and apparently the ownership is the same.  However, Chili House [...]

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Troya on Fillmore

By   /  November 6, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

As an immersive traveler, I adopt the diet of everyplace I go.  When I get back to San Francisco I actually feel homesick for the food, the air, the pace, of the places I visit. This happened when I recently returned from villages and provincial cities in southeastern Turkey along the Syrian border.  I just [...]

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Rich Table

By   /  October 15, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

A lot of young chefs these days are trying to break away from culinary traditions, to rewrite technique, to recombine ingredients.  Most of them fail. You don’t know why you’re eating the stuff that lands on the plate. It doesn’t satisfy. Rich Table is the exception. It defines itself as an innovative restaurant while turning [...]

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Wise Sons Deli

By   /  October 1, 2012  /  Food, Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Lord knows we need a Jewish deli in San Francisco and the Wise Sons have made it their mission to bring us one, first as a pop up, then in a booth at the Tuesday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, and now as a brick and mortar self serve restaurant in the Mission. On the booth’s [...]

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Bar Bambino

By   /  August 13, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Bar Bambino’s off the radar location on 16th Street, just one block east of Mission but seeming miles away from Valencia street action, happens to be a blessing for those of us who frequent the restaurant.  We can drop in, even on weekends, and usually find a seat at the communal table in the front [...]

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Ice Cream Bar

By   /  July 16, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

I recommend having ice cream for dinner at this re-creation of an old fashioned soda fountain on a residential block in the Haight.  Ice Cream Bar harkens back to the 1930s when booze was illegal and soda fountains served adult if non-alcoholic drinks made with extracts, tinctures and syrups. Additionally, Ice Cream Bar produces its [...]

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Gioia Pizzeria

By   /  July 9, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Does San Francisco need one more Delfina-like pizzeria that elevates the old fashioned parlor experience with sophisticated salads and antipasti, plus a few pasta and main courses? Apparently the answer is yes, especially on the Russian Hill stretch of Polk Street, because the new Gioia Pizzeria has been ecstatically embraced by the neighborhood. The place [...]

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