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Rich Table

By   /  October 15, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

A lot of young chefs these days are trying to break away from culinary traditions, to rewrite technique, to recombine ingredients.  Most of them fail. You don’t know why you’re eating the stuff that lands on the plate. It doesn’t satisfy. Rich Table is the exception. It defines itself as an innovative restaurant while turning [...]

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Wise Sons Deli

By   /  October 1, 2012  /  Food, Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Lord knows we need a Jewish deli in San Francisco and the Wise Sons have made it their mission to bring us one, first as a pop up, then in a booth at the Tuesday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, and now as a brick and mortar self serve restaurant in the Mission. On the booth’s [...]

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Market & Rye

By   /  September 4, 2012  /  Uncategorized  /  No Comments

The sandwich explosion rumbles on in San Francisco. Naked Lunch,  Deli Board, Salumeria, Wise Sons and now Market & Rye, Ryan Scott’s mini-chain of two. In once sense, today’s sandwiches are a throwback to the overstuffed Italian deli sandwich made with layers of meats and cheese dressed with oil and vinegar. The current versions are [...]

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Bar Bambino

By   /  August 13, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Bar Bambino’s off the radar location on 16th Street, just one block east of Mission but seeming miles away from Valencia street action, happens to be a blessing for those of us who frequent the restaurant.  We can drop in, even on weekends, and usually find a seat at the communal table in the front [...]

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Del Popolo

By   /  July 29, 2012  /  Food  /  No Comments

Jon Darsky, who apprenticed with Charlie Hallowell at Pizzaiola, went pro at Delfina Pizzeria, and became the much lauded pizza maker at Flour + Water, has struck out on his own. No, he has not opened a brick and mortar pizzeria. Rather he designed and had fabricated a pizzeria in a shipping container mounted on [...]

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Ice Cream Bar

By   /  July 16, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

I recommend having ice cream for dinner at this re-creation of an old fashioned soda fountain on a residential block in the Haight.  Ice Cream Bar harkens back to the 1930s when booze was illegal and soda fountains served adult if non-alcoholic drinks made with extracts, tinctures and syrups. Additionally, Ice Cream Bar produces its [...]

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Gioia Pizzeria

By   /  July 9, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Does San Francisco need one more Delfina-like pizzeria that elevates the old fashioned parlor experience with sophisticated salads and antipasti, plus a few pasta and main courses? Apparently the answer is yes, especially on the Russian Hill stretch of Polk Street, because the new Gioia Pizzeria has been ecstatically embraced by the neighborhood. The place [...]

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State Bird Provisions, Another Look

By   /  July 3, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

I reviewed State Bird Provisions for the Examiner shortly after it opened in February, 2012, jumping the gun because I was so excited about it.  Chef/owner Stuart Brioza and his two partners were still tinkering with the concept, an unusual food delivery system of dim sum carts and trays that stopped at each table. Essentially [...]

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Salumeria

By   /  July 1, 2012  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

Almost every neighborhood in San Francisco has its beloved corner grocery/deli, where the hungry can get thick, made to order subs, chips, a beer.  For fourteen years I lived in North Beach a block away from Freddy’s, an old timer on the corner of Francisco and Grant. I still have fond memories of the prosciutto [...]

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Mendocino “Burrata” of Goat and Sheep Milk

By   /  June 23, 2012  /  Food  /  No Comments

Pennyroyal Farmstead, an adjunct farm of Anderson Valley’s Navarro Vineyards. has put out their first cheese, a soft, creamy combo of goat milk and sheep milk with the texture of burrata, and a flavor that I have only tasted once before, when I camped out in the French Pyrenees with shepherds.   They made a similar [...]

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