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French Roots–an introduction to the cookbook by Jean-Pierre Moulle and Denise Lurton Moulle

By   /  September 18, 2014  /  Food, Uncategorized  /  No Comments

“Alors, we are having our picnic now,” announced Denise. She unfurled a table cloth over some wet logs in the middle of a meadow in the foothills of the French Pyrenees.  Jean-Pierre pulled bread, charcuterie, cheese and fruit from a wicker basket.  The Americans, kids and adults in sweat shirts and jackets, actually thought it [...]

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The Slanted Door–an Introduction to Charles Phan’s new cookbook

By   /  September 18, 2014  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

On my first visit to the Slanted Door sixteen years ago, then on a fairly scruffy block of Valencia in the Mission by now closed Bombay Bazaar, I fell hard for the Charles Phan experience. I had slurped noodles at hole in the wall pho joints and wolfed down the best sandwiches in the world [...]

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The Lunch Box–a film

By   /  September 18, 2014  /  Uncategorized  /  No Comments

In the opening minute of The Lunch Box, we see a Bombay housewife hurriedly send her young daughter off to school in a tuk tuk, then rush to the stove where she pulls off the regulator of a pressure cooker, twists off the top, dabs her palm with the creamy orange curry inside, and licks.  [...]

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A visit to the US Open

By   /  September 16, 2014  /  Travel  /  No Comments

The US Open in Flushing Meadows, New York, is one of the biggest, richest, brashest tennis tournaments in the world. Players, especially lesser known ones, who advance into the later rounds gleefully find themselves on the tennis world map. Kei Nishikori? Marin Cilic? Local teenager CiCi Bellis? Up and comer Madison Keyes? Now I’ll pay [...]

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What I’m Eating Now–May 16, 2014

By   /  May 16, 2014  /  Food, Restaurants  /  1 Comment

Warm Bagel with Herbed Farmers Cheese and Pickle at Marla Bakery Amy Brown, baker and co/owner of Marla Bakery, brought matzoh to Passover dinner this year.  Matzoh are usually square, bland, unleavened crackers that taste like processed white flour, but Brown’s matzoh were round, paper-thin, crackly, olive oil-infused flatbreads that were so divine, they made [...]

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Maruya

By   /  April 29, 2014  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

When Alice Waters, whom I consider one of the world’s great eaters, is asked about her favorite restaurants (other than Chez Panisse, of course), she always gives the same answer: “I go to restaurants where I am known.” By this she doesn’t mean getting a good table. She wants something deeper, both a kitchen and [...]

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Kin Khao

By   /  April 15, 2014  /  Restaurants, Uncategorized  /  3 Comments

A remarkable new Thai restaurant, Kin Khao, has opened in a hotel on the border of Union Square and the Tenderloin.  Yes, readers, once again, I’m in love. Of course we fall the hardest when we don’t expect it to happen, and I had my doubts about Kin Khao’s much-heralded opening.  First of all, Kin [...]

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Great China

By   /  April 8, 2014  /  Restaurants, Uncategorized  /  No Comments

The Peking duck pilgrimage to Berkeley begins again with the re-opening of Great China, the beloved, 28-year-old northern Chinese restaurant that closed after a fire in 2012. Finally the restaurant has started serving again in new quarters, a sleek, architect-designed space on the corner of Bancroft and Oxford, a block from the old place. Everything [...]

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Paying Respects at Zuni

By   /  April 8, 2014  /  Restaurants  /  1 Comment

A handful of women got together the other night at Zuni–women mostly in their sixties who have spent their lives in food and religiously believe that good eating brings ultimate happiness.  How come we were still there and one of our sisters, Judy Rogers, had left us? Rogers, our friend, and chef/partner at Zuni, died [...]

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cosecha

By   /  April 3, 2014  /  Restaurants  /  No Comments

A mouthwatering new blog from New York I have been following (importantfood.tumblr.com) focuses on dishes that are so compelling, so complete, so craveable, they lodge in your taste memory. You judge the success of all other dishes by them, no matter the ethnicity. The pozole verde at Cosecha, from chef/owner  Dominica Rice-Cisneros hit me that [...]

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