Restaurants View All →

On the Fried Chicken Trail

By   31 days ago

The crunchy, spice-laden skin of good fried chicken may sell the dish, but a  juicy, tender interior seals the deal.  Great fried chicken has both, and our search for the ideal never ends. Fried chicken excites like no other iconic American dish, be it burger, pizza, burrito and yes, sushi.  Here are three versions of [...]

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Notes from Mexico City

By   241 days ago

Dinner Most of my favorite Mexico City restaurants serve late lunch, the main meal of the day, and not dinner but Maximo in Colonia Roma, within walking distance of The Red Tree House, is the exception for a blow out meal in a bistrot that has been called the Chez Panisse of Mexico City.  It’s [...]

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Marla Bakery

By   245 days ago

How can a $6 plate of toast in a bakery/cafe in the depths of the Outer Richmond arouse such universal love? I guess because it is perfect. At the new brick-and-mortar Marla Bakery, across the street from the Balboa Theater, extravagantly thick slices of ciabatta, sourdough batard and levain are lightly toasted in the wood [...]

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The Slanted Door–an Introduction to Charles Phan’s new cookbook

By   287 days ago

On my first visit to the Slanted Door sixteen years ago, then on a fairly scruffy block of Valencia in the Mission by now closed Bombay Bazaar, I fell hard for the Charles Phan experience. I had slurped noodles at hole in the wall pho joints and wolfed down the best sandwiches in the world [...]

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What I’m Eating Now–May 16, 2014

By   411 days ago

Warm Bagel with Herbed Farmers Cheese and Pickle at Marla Bakery Amy Brown, baker and co/owner of Marla Bakery, brought matzoh to Passover dinner this year.  Matzoh are usually square, bland, unleavened crackers that taste like processed white flour, but Brown’s matzoh were round, paper-thin, crackly, olive oil-infused flatbreads that were so divine, they made [...]

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Maruya

By   428 days ago

When Alice Waters, whom I consider one of the world’s great eaters, is asked about her favorite restaurants (other than Chez Panisse, of course), she always gives the same answer: “I go to restaurants where I am known.” By this she doesn’t mean getting a good table. She wants something deeper, both a kitchen and [...]

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Kin Khao

By   442 days ago

A remarkable new Thai restaurant, Kin Khao, has opened in a hotel on the border of Union Square and the Tenderloin.  Yes, readers, once again, I’m in love. Of course we fall the hardest when we don’t expect it to happen, and I had my doubts about Kin Khao’s much-heralded opening.  First of all, Kin [...]

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Great China

By   449 days ago

The Peking duck pilgrimage to Berkeley begins again with the re-opening of Great China, the beloved, 28-year-old northern Chinese restaurant that closed after a fire in 2012. Finally the restaurant has started serving again in new quarters, a sleek, architect-designed space on the corner of Bancroft and Oxford, a block from the old place. Everything [...]

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Food View All →

The Breach–a movie about wild salmon

By   17 days ago

If wild salmon could talk, they might sound like the silvery stars of the documentary The Breach, who speak plaintively in a soft, feminine voice with an Irish lilt.  By the end of this documentary, intermittently shot from the point of view of powerful fish swimming in pristine streams and magnificent bays in the wilderness of [...]

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On the Fried Chicken Trail

By   31 days ago

The crunchy, spice-laden skin of good fried chicken may sell the dish, but a  juicy, tender interior seals the deal.  Great fried chicken has both, and our search for the ideal never ends. Fried chicken excites like no other iconic American dish, be it burger, pizza, burrito and yes, sushi.  Here are three versions of [...]

Read More →

Marla Bakery

By   245 days ago

How can a $6 plate of toast in a bakery/cafe in the depths of the Outer Richmond arouse such universal love? I guess because it is perfect. At the new brick-and-mortar Marla Bakery, across the street from the Balboa Theater, extravagantly thick slices of ciabatta, sourdough batard and levain are lightly toasted in the wood [...]

Read More →

French Roots–an introduction to the cookbook by Jean-Pierre Moulle and Denise Lurton Moulle

By   287 days ago

“Alors, we are having our picnic now,” announced Denise. She unfurled a table cloth over some wet logs in the middle of a meadow in the foothills of the French Pyrenees.  Jean-Pierre pulled bread, charcuterie, cheese and fruit from a wicker basket.  The Americans, kids and adults in sweat shirts and jackets, actually thought it [...]

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What I’m Eating Now–May 16, 2014

By   411 days ago

Warm Bagel with Herbed Farmers Cheese and Pickle at Marla Bakery Amy Brown, baker and co/owner of Marla Bakery, brought matzoh to Passover dinner this year.  Matzoh are usually square, bland, unleavened crackers that taste like processed white flour, but Brown’s matzoh were round, paper-thin, crackly, olive oil-infused flatbreads that were so divine, they made [...]

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What I’m Eating Now, December ’13

By   572 days ago

Organic Valley Grassmilk and Organic Valley Pasture Butter Those of you who have tasted raw milk know that it is one of the great pleasures of the table. Alive and full of nuance, raw milk is palpably creamier and sweeter than typical pasteurized and homogenized milk. Tasted side by side with raw milk, pasteurized milk [...]

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Ferry Plaza Farmers Market: 20 Years of Good Taste

By   699 days ago

The 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake shook San Francisco to its roots and sent the city into a funk. Tourism, our number one industry, collapsed; no one would set foot in the city. The Civic Center, the nexus of government and the arts, shut down as one building after another closed for retro-fitting. Transportation was a [...]

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b. Patisserie

By   830 days ago

I am obsessed with b. Patisserie, a new bakery/cafe in my lower Pacific Heights neighborhood. I sit at the computer inventing excuses to walk over. When I’m out, and pass within two blocks of its pearly white facade and big front windows, I start talking to myself. If I dropped in every time I had [...]

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Travel View All →

Notes from Mexico City

By   241 days ago

Dinner Most of my favorite Mexico City restaurants serve late lunch, the main meal of the day, and not dinner but Maximo in Colonia Roma, within walking distance of The Red Tree House, is the exception for a blow out meal in a bistrot that has been called the Chez Panisse of Mexico City.  It’s [...]

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A visit to the US Open

By   289 days ago

The US Open in Flushing Meadows, New York, is one of the biggest, richest, brashest tennis tournaments in the world. Players, especially lesser known ones, who advance into the later rounds gleefully find themselves on the tennis world map. Kei Nishikori? Marin Cilic? Local teenager CiCi Bellis? Up and comer Madison Keyes? Now I’ll pay [...]

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Venice: A Tale of Two Restaurants

By   699 days ago

Every two years, Venice produces the biggest contemporary art extravaganza on the planet. La Biennale, as it is called, places hundreds of art installations from different countries at venues all over the city–in private museums, houses, churches, public buildings. The epicenter is the Arsenale, a complex of empty military buildings. Though one could easily spend [...]

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Hanalei on Kauai

By   708 days ago

The town of Hanalei, on the rainy fecund north shore of Kauai, embodies the old cinematic Hawaii of our fantasies. Well, my fantasies at least, which is why, for several years now, I have been renting a small artist’s cottage found through Vacation Rentals By Owner (vrbo.com). Located on Powerhouse Road in Wainha, five miles [...]

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West Maui

By   848 days ago

Kaanapali, with its perfect year round beach weather and gentle ocean, always strikes me as a big parking lot in paradise.  Annually, for 18 years, we stayed in a low rise condo at the Maui-Kaanapali Villas in a unit much enhanced by a long, uninhabited beach on one side–and grandpa next door. Now, ten years [...]

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Bastille Day Feast

By   1105 days ago

This announcement came to me through Georgeanne Brennan, a fellow member of Les Dames d’Escoffier. A Bastille Day Feast Saturday, July 14, 2012 Wolfskill Ranch 4334 Putah Creek Road, Winters, CA Gathering time: 11:30 a.m. Tour of historic Wilfskill ranch:  11:45 a.m. Aperitif:  12:30 p.m. Feast:  1 to 3 p.m. All participants bring their own [...]

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Etxebarri: The Best Restaurant in Spain and Maybe the World

By   1112 days ago

This simple asador in a restored farmhouse  in Axpe, a tiny village tucked into a velvety green valley in the Cantabrian mountains near Bilbao, embodies everything I love about food. The menu is just a list of ingredients: most local, some rare, all sourced to be the most exquisite examples of their kind. All the [...]

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Chez Hugon, Lyons

By   1140 days ago

I was following my own footsteps in Lyons using a printout of an article I had written ten years ago.  Some things had changed, like my favorite cheese stall in Les Halles, the best indoor food market in town on the Cours Lafayette, a fifteen minute walk from The Globe and Cecil.  Small, oozing rounds [...]

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