Restaurants View All →

Kin Khao

By   9 days ago

A remarkable new Thai restaurant, Kin Khao, has opened in a hotel on the border of Union Square and the Tenderloin.  Yes, readers, once again, I’m in love. Of course we fall the hardest when we don’t expect it to happen, and I had my doubts about Kin Khao’s much-heralded opening.  First of all, Kin [...]

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Great China

By   16 days ago

The Peking duck pilgrimage to Berkeley begins again with the re-opening of Great China, the beloved, 28-year-old northern Chinese restaurant that closed after a fire in 2012. Finally the restaurant has started serving again in new quarters, a sleek, architect-designed space on the corner of Bancroft and Oxford, a block from the old place. Everything [...]

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Paying Respects at Zuni

By   16 days ago

A handful of women got together the other night at Zuni–women mostly in their sixties who have spent their lives in food and religiously believe that good eating brings ultimate happiness.  How come we were still there and one of our sisters, Judy Rogers, had left us? Rogers, our friend, and chef/partner at Zuni, died [...]

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cosecha

By   21 days ago

A mouthwatering new blog from New York I have been following (importantfood.tumblr.com) focuses on dishes that are so compelling, so complete, so craveable, they lodge in your taste memory. You judge the success of all other dishes by them, no matter the ethnicity. The pozole verde at Cosecha, from chef/owner  Dominica Rice-Cisneros hit me that [...]

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Campton Place Spice Route Menu

By   120 days ago

When the Taj Hotel group took over the operation of Campton Place five years ago, they inherited a famous dining room, one that changed the very identity of high-end hotel dining in America. The hotel opened in 1983 with the idea of mounting a top-tier Union Square restaurant that would draw San Franciscans.  Then manager [...]

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Alta, CA

By   128 days ago

Alta, CA had been open just fourteen hours when I walked over from the corner of Hayes and Franklin, by Davies Hall, through the rain and wind one Friday night. I passed the lively, glass-enclosed Jazz Center and headed east on Fell to Van Ness. Here the landscape started to change, especially when I turned [...]

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Shanghai House, Revisited

By   139 days ago

We are blessed with so many excellent restaurants in San Francisco that sometimes we don’t get back even to our favorites. I was reminded of this after a recent visit to tiny Shanghai House, across the street from the Balboa Theater. When I walked in I saw my last review, written in 2007, facing me [...]

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Hong Kong Lounge II

By   164 days ago

Nobody handles fish and shellfish with the sensitivity, the timing and the nuanced technique of the Cantonese. Give Italians their miraculously juicy branzino baked in sea salt, and the Japanese their thrilling, animistic presentation of the raw. The Cantonese prepare the whole underwater menagerie in ways that reveal wondrous flavors and textures. No chefs do [...]

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What I’m Eating Now, December ’13

By   139 days ago

Organic Valley Grassmilk and Organic Valley Pasture Butter Those of you who have tasted raw milk know that it is one of the great pleasures of the table. Alive and full of nuance, raw milk is palpably creamier and sweeter than typical pasteurized and homogenized milk. Tasted side by side with raw milk, pasteurized milk [...]

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Ferry Plaza Farmers Market: 20 Years of Good Taste

By   265 days ago

The 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake shook San Francisco to its roots and sent the city into a funk. Tourism, our number one industry, collapsed; no one would set foot in the city. The Civic Center, the nexus of government and the arts, shut down as one building after another closed for retro-fitting. Transportation was a [...]

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b. Patisserie

By   397 days ago

I am obsessed with b. Patisserie, a new bakery/cafe in my lower Pacific Heights neighborhood. I sit at the computer inventing excuses to walk over. When I’m out, and pass within two blocks of its pearly white facade and big front windows, I start talking to myself. If I dropped in every time I had [...]

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California Olive Ranch Olive Oil

By   454 days ago

For the first time, in my opinion, a California grower is producing extra virgin olive oil that is comparable in price, quality and availability to the extra virgin oils produced in Greece, Spain and Italy. Less than ten years ago California Olive Ranch started planting high density olive trees that look and act like grapevines. [...]

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Wise Sons Deli

By   570 days ago

Lord knows we need a Jewish deli in San Francisco and the Wise Sons have made it their mission to bring us one, first as a pop up, then in a booth at the Tuesday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, and now as a brick and mortar self serve restaurant in the Mission. On the booth’s [...]

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Del Popolo

By   634 days ago

Jon Darsky, who apprenticed with Charlie Hallowell at Pizzaiola, went pro at Delfina Pizzeria, and became the much lauded pizza maker at Flour + Water, has struck out on his own. No, he has not opened a brick and mortar pizzeria. Rather he designed and had fabricated a pizzeria in a shipping container mounted on [...]

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Mendocino “Burrata” of Goat and Sheep Milk

By   670 days ago

Pennyroyal Farmstead, an adjunct farm of Anderson Valley’s Navarro Vineyards. has put out their first cheese, a soft, creamy combo of goat milk and sheep milk with the texture of burrata, and a flavor that I have only tasted once before, when I camped out in the French Pyrenees with shepherds.   They made a similar [...]

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Bastille Day Feast

By   672 days ago

This announcement came to me through Georgeanne Brennan, a fellow member of Les Dames d’Escoffier. A Bastille Day Feast Saturday, July 14, 2012 Wolfskill Ranch 4334 Putah Creek Road, Winters, CA Gathering time: 11:30 a.m. Tour of historic Wilfskill ranch:  11:45 a.m. Aperitif:  12:30 p.m. Feast:  1 to 3 p.m. All participants bring their own [...]

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Venice: A Tale of Two Restaurants

By   265 days ago

Every two years, Venice produces the biggest contemporary art extravaganza on the planet. La Biennale, as it is called, places hundreds of art installations from different countries at venues all over the city–in private museums, houses, churches, public buildings. The epicenter is the Arsenale, a complex of empty military buildings. Though one could easily spend [...]

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Hanalei on Kauai

By   275 days ago

The town of Hanalei, on the rainy fecund north shore of Kauai, embodies the old cinematic Hawaii of our fantasies. Well, my fantasies at least, which is why, for several years now, I have been renting a small artist’s cottage found through Vacation Rentals By Owner (vrbo.com). Located on Powerhouse Road in Wainha, five miles [...]

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West Maui

By   415 days ago

Kaanapali, with its perfect year round beach weather and gentle ocean, always strikes me as a big parking lot in paradise.  Annually, for 18 years, we stayed in a low rise condo at the Maui-Kaanapali Villas in a unit much enhanced by a long, uninhabited beach on one side–and grandpa next door. Now, ten years [...]

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Bastille Day Feast

By   672 days ago

This announcement came to me through Georgeanne Brennan, a fellow member of Les Dames d’Escoffier. A Bastille Day Feast Saturday, July 14, 2012 Wolfskill Ranch 4334 Putah Creek Road, Winters, CA Gathering time: 11:30 a.m. Tour of historic Wilfskill ranch:  11:45 a.m. Aperitif:  12:30 p.m. Feast:  1 to 3 p.m. All participants bring their own [...]

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Etxebarri: The Best Restaurant in Spain and Maybe the World

By   679 days ago

This simple asador in a restored farmhouse  in Axpe, a tiny village tucked into a velvety green valley in the Cantabrian mountains near Bilbao, embodies everything I love about food. The menu is just a list of ingredients: most local, some rare, all sourced to be the most exquisite examples of their kind. All the [...]

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Chez Hugon, Lyons

By   707 days ago

I was following my own footsteps in Lyons using a printout of an article I had written ten years ago.  Some things had changed, like my favorite cheese stall in Les Halles, the best indoor food market in town on the Cours Lafayette, a fifteen minute walk from The Globe and Cecil.  Small, oozing rounds [...]

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Lyons

By   713 days ago

Arrived at the Globe and Cecil, my favorite hotel in Lyons, at 11:30 p.m. after a long trip from San Francisco, and immediately set out on a balmy night to find something to eat.  Not much stays open late though on the rue de Merciere, in a district of bars,  a bouchon called Les Enfants [...]

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Road Trip to Los Angeles

By   742 days ago

Paso Robles is exactly half way between San Francisco and Los Angeles on Highway 101. I like to break up the drive by spending the night there, and have dinner at Artisan, one of those restaurant treasures you never expect to find outside of the Bay Area.  The kitchen makes a sincere effort to find [...]

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